Image: H.E. Sarah Jane Evans MW and H.E. Mr José Pascual Marco, The Ambassador of Spain to the United Kingdom and Northern Ireland
We are delighted to announce that Sarah Jane Evans MW, leading international wine writer, Spanish wine specialist and Chairman of the Gran Orden de Caballeros del Vino, was decorated with the Officer’s Cross of The Royal Order of Isabella the Catholic at a dinner at the Spanish Ambassador’s Residence in London this week.
The decoration is granted by the King of Spain and the Grand Chancellor, the Minister of Foreign Affairs. The Order was created in 1815 by King Ferdinand VII in honour of Queen Isabel I and is open to both Spaniards and foreigners with the intent of, “rewarding the firm allegiance to Spain and the merits of Spanish citizens and foreigners in good standing with the Nation.”
Commenting on granting the decoration to Sarah Jane Evans, The Ambassador of Spain to the United Kingdom and Northern Ireland, H.E. Mr. José Pascual Marco, said, “It is a pleasure to bestow the Officer’s Cross of the Order of Isabel la Católica to Sarah Jane Evans. Her long-standing and contagious love for Spain and Spanish wines, which dates back to her time as a student at the University of Cambridge, has led her to chair the Gran Orden de Caballeros del Vino, an organisation that has greatly helped raise the knowledge of the diversity and high quality of Spanish wines in the UK market”.
On receiving the Officer’s Cross of the Order of Isabella the Catholic, Sarah Jane Evans MW said, “It is an immense privilege to receive this decoration. I’m really touched, and even a little overwhelmed. I’d like to thank H.E. The Ambassador of Spain to the UK & Ireland Mr. José Pascual Marco for bestowing this honour on me. Additionally, my heartfelt thanks also to all those who have helped me in my career in Spain and the UK.”
As well as her role as Chairman of the Gran Orden de Caballeros del Vino, Sarah Jane Evans MW is also Co-Chairman of the Decanter World Wine Awards, ContributingEditorat Decantermagazine as well as a Dama de Albariño and Dama de Solear. Evans is a former Chairman of the Institute of Masters of Wine, where she was a winner of the Robert Mondavi Winery Award and won the Outstanding Alumni Award at the WSET.
As we wind down for a much-needed break with our friends and families, we thought we’d share some of the Spanish food and drink pairings that the members of the Gran Orden de Caballeros del Vino Español will be enjoying this festive season.
Unlike the UK, where a meal of roast turkey and Christmas pudding is all but ubiquitous on Christmas Day, Spanish families tend to vary the dishes that they serve over the season, although there are a few ingredients and particular sweet treats that signify that it’s Christmas in Spain.
The big celebratory meal takes place on Christmas Eve. As in the past this was a time for fasting, fish was served rather than meat. Besugo or red sea bream is one of the best catches at this time of year so it has become traditional to serve a whole fish baked in the oven, often on a bed of sliced potatoes and flavoured with garlic, lemon and a drizzle of olive oil.
Although she has lived in London for many years, Caballero Maria José Sevilla has maintained the tradition of gathering for a big meal on the evening of the 24th December:
“Something I always prepare for Christmas Eve, when I have all the family around the table, is a turrón ice-cream served with a rich sauce made with pasas (raisins) from Malaga soaked in an exquisite Montilla PX. I always serve this ice cream with a copita of the same wine.”
Along with polvorones – crumbly shortbread biscuits – Christmas in Spain would not be complete without turrón. This nougat-like confection dates back to the times of al-Andalus and the original recipe contains honey, almonds, egg white and sugar, although many variants are now available.
Seafood is another must-have, with queues building up at pescaderías all over Spain in the lead up to Christmas and the New Year. Fresh prawns or langoustines served with Cava make for a simple but sublime pairing that always features over the holidays. Cava also takes a starring role on New Year’s Eve, often served with twelve grapes that are eaten in time with the chimes of the clock.
In Cataluña, Cava is served with an even wider range of dishes, as Caballero Ferran Centelles explains: “In our house we always eat escudella i carn d’olla, which is a traditional soup containing stewed meat, chickpeas and sausages. It might sound strange but we always drink Cava Brut Nature alongside it. It has become a tradition and we love how delicious it is and how the cava really refreshes the palate.”
The 26th December – St Stephen’s Day – is also a holiday in Cataluña and time for another classic dish, as Ferran explains: “ We celebrate San Esteve with the traditional canelones. At home we enjoy it with a young red made using carbonic maceration. A delightfully fruity pairing.”
Caballero Richard Bigg shares some pairings for a dish that he and his Spanish wife often cook at home and is now on the menu at Camino: slow-braised ox cheek with Oloroso Sherry sauce, Jerusalem artichoke purée and a hazelnut crumble.
“There are a couple of matches that go really well,” Bigg explains. “Either a good Oloroso sherry, such as the one we stock from Bodegas Gutiérrez Colosía, which is full-bodied, nutty with a strong and fragrant aroma and a deep, rounded, super-smooth texture, or a hearty red. I’d recommend Pesquera from Bodegas Alejandro Fernández in DO Ribera del Duero – a Crianza rather than a Reserva as it has a good freshness and acidity that cuts through the rich meatiness of the dish. For me, this is one of the most deservedly famous bodegas on the Golden Mile, and the wine has expressive black fruit and spice flavours and a refined, elegant finish.”
Sarah Jane Evans MW, Chairman of the Gran Orden, incorporates Spanish wines into British traditions. On Christmas Eve, she puts out glasses of Palo Cortado Sherry and mince pies on the mantelpiece for Father Christmas, with a carrot for the reindeer. The tradition on Christmas Day is Beef Wellington, served with a mature Rioja. ‘The timeless, velvety character of the wines are deliciously indulgent with a meal that goes on gently through the afternoon into the early evening.’
The festive season in Spain isn’t over until the 6th January, when the Three Kings traditionally bring gifts and grown-ups and children alike indulge in the Roscón de Reyes, a sweet and doughy ring-shaped cake adorned with candied fruits. This festive dessert hides a small figurine and/or a dried bean within. Tradition dictates that the person who discovers the figurine is blessed with good luck, while the finder of the bean must buy next year’s Roscón! Rather than anything alcoholic, the classic accompaniment is rich hot chocolate.
Spain has witnessed a challenging year for vine growers in 2023, marked by an unprecedented spring drought and autumn storms that disrupted grape harvests across the country. We caught up with some Caballeros and other figures in the Spanish wine industry to hear their take on it.
Caballero Guillermo de Aranzabal, CEO of La Rioja Alta, S.A gives his impressions of the 2023 vintage: “Of the 36 years I’ve been at the winery, this has been one of the most challenging years yet, especially in Rioja. High temperatures, untimely rains, intense storms, etc., have resulted in large bunches and over-sized grapes, and excessively high production. This led to wines with low acidity, little colour, and high alcohol content. In the Rioja Alta region, it doesn’t seem that they will be suitable for ageing wines, perhaps only for Crianzas and young wines.”
However, conditions in Galicia and Castilla y León were much more favourable, as Guillermo explains: “Luckily this wasn’t universal. In our Lagar de Cervera winery (Rías Baixas), the quality has been very high, as well as in ASTER (Ribera del Duero), with appropriate yields. In Torre de Oña, SA (Rioja Alavesa), we’ve also had a very good harvest, especially in what we call “Viñedos Artesanales,” which are vineyards over 50 years old, cultivated in goblet style in the Sierra de Cantabria. These old vineyards have endured the inclement weather better than the young ones on trellises.”
From drought to DANA
According to La Semana Vitivinícola, the total Spanish production is expected around the 32 million hectolitre mark, compared to 41 million hectolitres in 2022. A considerable drop, in fact, this is one of the lowest harvests ever recorded. The primary culprit behind this reduction is drought. Spain recorded its driest start to a year since records began in the 1960s. The arid conditions were particularly severe in Andalusia in the south and Catalonia in the northeast. The largest region of all in volume terms, Castilla-La Mancha, also saw production down by around 21%.
The other key meteorological condition that had a catastrophic effect on this year’s harvest is the phenomenon known by the abbreviation DANA in Spanish. Translated as a “cold drop” in English, it is an isolated depression at high levels of the atmosphere that causes torrential rain. Spain saw two such weather events during the first and third week of September, with particularly severe flooding across Madrid and Castilla-La Mancha during the former.
Further adverse weather events, such as spring frosts and hailstorms in DO Ribera del Duero and flooding in the east, mean that this is also a record year in terms of insurance pay-outs to vine growers who saw their crops reduced or even lost altogether.
Challenges in the east
Caballero Norrel Robertson MW a.k.a. El Escocés Volante details the weather conditions that affected his vineyards in Aragón, North East Spain:
“We had a very dry start to 2023. After a few showers in the first half of December 2022, we continued in drought mode until June 2023. Like many parts of Mediterranean and continental Spain, we had barely one drop of water for six months.
The growth and phenological cycle followed a traditional pattern in Calatayud and most of Aragón, with budburst of Garnacha occurring around the first week of April. Whilst April and May were not as warm as in 2022, shoot growth was quick to start. Flowering and fruit set were staggered due to some deficiencies caused by lack of water, namely potassium and phosphorus: some vineyards started to show red patches on the leaves, confirming the inability of the vine to absorb potassium because of the absence of water.
June brought some respite with up to 100mm to 150mm falling in 10-15 days, mainly in storms. This was make-or-break for many vineyards in Aragón. Without the rain, many vineyards would have dried out and died (as witnessed in much of Penedès, which did not receive the same amount of rain and where shoot growth did not extend past June).
July brought a short heatwave from the 15th to 20th, but events in August were even more severe with a run of 35ºC+ over many days. Storms over the 1st to 3rd of September brought some more respite and we received up to another 70mm in the run up to harvest. More unfortunate producers from Toledo south of Madrid towards the east received catastrophic levels of rain and wind that laid waste to many vineyards.
We started picking our first grapes from the 7th of September. The late rains helped us to reach better phenolic maturity and finish off the ripening period. Normally, harvest would start 45 to 60 days after envero (veraison). With envero beginning the second week of July and the heat stress lasting up until the end of August, we are talking about 50 days of quite extreme conditions.
2023 is not a year for high alcohol, as warm summers and vintages sometimes dictate. Most of our Macabeos and Garnacha Blancas we ready to pick with 12.5 to 13.0% alcohol. Our reds are similarly fresh with alcohols between 13.0 and 14 in most cases. Wineries looking for higher alcohol levels or chasing the myth of more ripeness were left picking sun-affected and dried-out bunches as temperatures rose once more at the end of September and start of October.
As with 2022, in 2023 we eschewed pigeage and favoured light pump-overs of the cap for gentle extractions on the reds. The paradox of the year is the slightly higher pH in the finished wines despite the inaccessibility of potassium due to drought. Malolactic fermentation has taken place quickly. I think we can characterize the style of many 2023 reds as being low in alcohol, quite forward and perfumed with monte bajo / garrigue notes probably as the result of a very hot and dry August .I don’t think we are talking about the longest-lived vintage but we have made some pretty wines.”
Barcelona-based Caballero Ferran Centelles explains the issues faced in Catalonia, where DO Penedès was particularly badly effected with a 40% loss compared to the 2022 vintage:
“Here we had a short and warm harvest. High temperatures and a lack of water have resulted in grapes that are less fleshy and juicy than normal. Ripening is becoming increasingly uneven, with the heat in mid-summer causing ripening to stop. This leads to a growing imbalance between phenolic and technological maturity.
However, the wines I have had the chance to taste are concentrated and flavourful. It may not be a refined vintage, but we will find flavourful wines. The challenge for the producers lies in achieving a balance between alcohol, acidity, and ripe flavours.”
The extreme conditions led to DOCa Rioja facing a challenging, stop-start vintage. Harvesting began on August 10th with Tempranillo Blanco in Aldeanueva de Ebro, slightly later than the previous year due to cooler nights. However, heavy rainfall at the start of September, especially in the eastern half of the region, brought harvesting activities to a halt. The combination of wet yet warm weather, with temperatures reaching up to 30°C, created favourable conditions for botrytis, compounded by hail in some areas, further damaging the grapes and raising concerns about both quantity and quality.
In neighbouring Navarra, Ochoa said “the 2023 harvest has been the earliest in our history and we’ve been making wine since 1845. “
The year started with a rainy month of January, which compensated for the lack of rainfall in 2022. The rest of the winter and spring were dry however. Fortunately, rainfall in June saved the vintage.
Ochoa believes that the organic management of the vineyard together with the good drainage offered by stony soils were key to the resilience of the vines, even after a bout of hail on the 7th of July.
High temperatures in August slowed down ripening and harvest started with Muscat on the 22nd August. Rains at the start of September led to disease pressure and the harvest was staggered over seven weeks with a selection of the best fruit. Ochoa describes the newly fermented wines as “fresh with great aromatic richness.”
In terms of sparkling wines, the DO Cava experienced one of its earliest vintages ever, commencing at the end of July. Due to the scarce rainfall, the grapes are noticeably small in size with minimal pulp and volumes are small. Hydric stress made it necessary to sacrifice of a portion of the crop to ensure the remainder could ripen.
Survival in the South
Despite the low rainfall, the DO Jerez fared better than perhaps could have been expected. Although only 425 – 480 l/m2 of rainfall fell, compared to 600l/m2 on average, and there was some damage due to summer hailstorms in Trebujena and Lebrija, the harvest was completed on the 15th September with 50 million kg of grapes, 12% more than the previous year, which was particularly hot. The results are testimony to the water-retention capabilities of the typical albariza soil.
Moderation in the North
Despite the winter drought, wine-producing regions in the north, particularly those influenced by the Atlantic Ocean and the Cantabrian Sea, saw more moderate yet varied conditions. Almudena Alberca MW, Head Winemaker at Bodegas Viña Mayor in DO Ribera del Duero and Caserío de Dueñas in DO Rueda, explains what conditions were like in these areas:
“We had a very dry winter with unusually warm temperatures. March was then very cold, with frost that damaged some of the buds across Ribera del Duero. In this region a further widespread frost occurred in May, damaging the shoots, which were 20cm long by that point.
Then we saw a cycle of warm temperatures of 21ºC, rising to 28ºC to be followed by heavy thunderstorms and hail. Half the average annual rainfall – approximately 150-200L – fell in many parts from May to June in heavy downpours. This was positive in terms of recovering water reserves that had been depleted by the dry winter, but adversely affected flowering and led to mildew.
In July and early August, conditions were more “normal” with heat and sunshine during the day but cooler temperatures at night. In mid-July, temperatures rose as high as 38ºC but then cooled to 15-20ºC at night. This is habitual for this time of year and cooler than last year when we saw temperatures of 40ºC during the day and 22-25ºC at night over a sustained period.”
The harvest in the DO Ribera del Duero commenced on September 18th. While this timing aligns with last year’s historic dates, increased rainfall and slightly milder temperatures compared to 2022 facilitated grape ripening. Despite the various hailstorms, frosts and periods of drought, 117 million kilos of grapes were harvested, compared with the short vintage of 2022 of 105 million kilos.
The harvest in the DO Rueda started as early as the 15th August, with the Sauvignon Blanc grapes picked first to retain their acidity. The spring’s intense heat, with night temperatures above 25°C, was counterbalanced by more moderate summer temperatures, leading to wines with perfectly balanced acidity and alcohol. 130 million kg were harvested, compared to 163 million kg the previous year.
In Galicia, the harvest was also early, with 70 per cent completed by September 19th. Due to the addition of new hectares of vineyard, and the more favourable conditions in this Atlantic region, the harvest reached 75 million kilos, the highest in a decade and 7% more than 2022. The DO Rías Baixas saw its largest ever vintage, with 44 million kilos.
Climate change and sustainability
When asked if he thinks Spain’s vineyards are being adversely affected by climate change, Guillermo de Aranzabal responded in the affirmative:
“When I entered the winery in 1987, the alcohol content we aimed for was 12.5%. Today, there are no wines with less than 14% abv. The weather has also changed a lot, with more prolonged droughts, more frequent storms, much higher temperatures… we are planting new vines on much higher terrain, between 750 and 820 meters in altitude, with the hope of producing grapes with a better balance between alcohol and acidity.”
Almudena Alberca MW agrees: “Over the past 10 years, we’ve experienced very varied conditions in our vineyards – from heavy snowfall and a cool spring in 2021 to drought and heat in 2022 and the varied conditions of this year. This makes it very difficult to adapt but we know that strong healthy vines are most resistant to changing temperatures. This is why sustainability is such a key factor.”
Norrel Robertson MW explains the steps that he is taking to ensure the long-term resilience of his vines: “As we own 40 hectares of dry grown vineyards in an area with only 250 to 200 mm of rain a year with soils sometimes lacking in organic content, we joined the Regenerative Association in Spain this year and our focus is on certifying our production as regenerative. Like most journeys, the application of processes is possibly more important than certification itself, especially in a changing climate.
Most of our focus in the last 14 months has been to produce our own Biochar from vine and other cuttings to apply in the vineyards, helping us to improve soil microbiology, water retention and general soil function.”
The Gran Orden was founded to recognise those in Spain and the UK who work to promote the best in Spanish wines in the UK. Our annual Investiture Dinner is a great opportunity to celebrate.
In 2023, we enjoyed a menu put together by the executive chef of the Landmark hotel London, Gary Klaner, paired with wines selected by Caballeros from those submitted for tasting to ICEX by UK importers.
Thank you to the producers and importers who kindly provided the beer, jamón, waters and wines.
MENU
Tartar de Atún de Aleta Amarilla, Guindilla, Mango,
Cilantro y Aderezo de Ponzu
Yellowfin Tuna Tartare, Chilli, Mango and Coriander, Ponzu Dressing
Magret de Pato Asado, Croqueta, Puré de Zanahoria Especiada,
Brócoli a La Brasa y Salsa de Naranja
Roasted Duck Breast, Croquette, Five Spiced Carrot,
Charred Tenderstem Broccoli with Orange Infused Sauce
A stunning example of sparkling wine from the Alt Penedès made from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay alongside Catalan Xarel·lo. The wine was aged 36 months before release and while still showing bright citrus aromas and a lively persistence, it has developed an impressive complexity and richness from nearly a decade of evolution.
Imported by John E Fells | fells.co.uk
Investiture
Manzanilla Pasada de Sanlúcar Almacenista Cuevas Jurado NV – DO Manzanilla Sanlúcar de Barrameda
Bodegas Lustau
This Manzanilla Pasada comes from a solera over 80 years old, made up of -coincidentally! – just 80 barrels. It is one of Lustau’s Almacenista bottlings, aged by Manuel Cuevas Jurado. With typical salinity, bitter almond and camomile, the wine has also gained in intensity and complexity from seven years of ageing.
Imported by Bancroft Wines | bancroftwines.com
Starter
Blanco de Silos 2021 – DO Ribera del Duero
Cillar de Silos
A white that reflects both the history and the future of Ribera del Duero. Made from Albillo Mayor, an old indigenous variety recently recuperated and now permitted within the DO, this is an elegant and subtle wine with an appealing texture that opens up beautifully with time in the glass.
UK supplier Cillar de Silos | cillardesilos.es
Kha Mé 2021 – Vino de España
Struggling Vines
From a Riojan producer, but not classified within the DOCa, this wine breaks the mould. Garnacha Blanca from 60-year-old vines, fermented and aged in amphorae to maintain freshness and varietal typicality. With floral notes, a touch of honey and intense salinity, this is an exciting wine with a unique personality.
Imported by Moreno Wines | morenowines.co.uk
Main Course
Bruma del Estrecho de Marin Finca CQ 2021 – DO Jumilla
Viña Elena
With pretty violet and lavender notes, this Monastrell is elegant, silky and seductive.A single estate wine from old vines at altitude, it is marked by an underlying freshness while not losing any of the variety’s intensity. A fabulous example of a Mediterranean red driven by the expression of the vineyard… Jumilla unplugged!
Imported by Alliance Wine | alliancewine.com
Cosme Palacio 1894 2017 – DOCa Rioja
Entrecanales Domecq e Hijos
Pure Tempranillo. This is a stylish and polished wine from old vines, 50 – 70 years old, near Laguardia. With typical notes of sotobosque, violet and red cherry, this is a subtly spicy, savoury and long expression of the region. Rioja unmasked: harmonious, well-integrated oak with a serious focus on vineyard site.
Imported by North South Wines | northsouthwines.co.uk
Dessert
Solera 1847 NV – DO Jerez-Xérès-Sherry
González Byass
Deliciously nutty with creamy caramel, dates and spice. An intense and layered sweet wine that stills stays light on its feet through the happy marriage of Palomino with Pedro Ximénez. Aged for 8 years in solera, this is a classic and refined example of the magic of blending sweet wines in Jerez.
Imported by Gonzalez Byass UK | gonzalezbyass.com
Stirrup Cup
Gramona La Cuvée 2015 – Corpinnat
Gramona
Made from Macabeo, Xarel·lo and Parellada, this wine comes from one of the pioneers in Catalunya and a leader in the ageing of Spanish traditional method sparkling wines. This spends 30 months on lees, followed by bottle ageing, lending the wine brioche and toasty notes while the palate offers hallmark apple, pear and peach. A fine end to the evening!
UK supplier Berry Brothers & Rudd | bbr.com
Food & Drink sponsors
Fisan – Guijuelo
100% Ibérico Bellota Ham Alta Gastronomía
The secret resides in the selection of the best raw material: only the most exceptional hams are classified as Alta Gastronomía. Patience and abundant resting time in the Bodega that is open to the breeze from the Sierra de Salamanca, culminating in a very special Jamón from a centenarian family company, FISAN.
Imported by Mevalco | mevalco.com
Estrella Galicia Internacional
Hijos de Rivera
Established in 1906 in A Coruña, Estrella Galicia is a Spanish family-owned independent brewery. Estrella Galicia is a distinctive lager, crafted using a combination of Galician water, bittering hops from Germany, and pilsner malts. It has a golden colour, a light body and a well-balanced sweetness with a bitter finish.
Imported by Greene King Brewing & Brands Ltd | estrellagaliciabeer.co.uk
Mondariz
Aguas de Mondariz is a balanced mineral-medicinal water, of pure origin, from ancient granite that provides golden hues and amplifies its crystalline transparency. Its smooth and pleasant texture gives it a fresh tactile sensation with a silky feel.
C&D Wines | canddwines.co.uk
Vichy Catalán
Vichy Catalán genuine natural sparkling mineral water represents 140 years of history, prestige and quality. In the world of table waters, it stands out from the rest thanks to its distinctive flavour and the finesse of its bubbles.
For those of you who were not present at the 38th Investiture Dinner held at the Landmark Hotel, London on Thursday 29th June 2023, we publish the welcome speech by Sarah Jane Evans MW, Chairperson of the Gran Orden de Caballeros del Vino:
“Baroness Hooper; Sr. Nadal; Acting Chancellor; Vice Chancellor; New Caballeros; Caballeros; Ladies and Gentlemen; Welcome!
Guests from last year will recognise our Toastmaster Ted Prior. His role is to keep me – and all of us – in order, and ensure there’s plenty of time after this dinner to enjoy the Stirrup Cup. My role, as you will see on the menu, is to welcome you, the guests.
It’s a most enjoyable task as I can see so many good friends here. It is terrific to welcome you – importers, press, wine buyers, retailers, winemakers, representatives of business and government.
This is a unique event in the London world of wine, where those of us who work with Spain and its fine wines come together to celebrate the wines and your achievements this past year.
It’s been a good year for Spain so far. In the recent World’s 50 best awards Spain had three of the top four restaurants in the world. Spain also excelled at The Decanter World Wine Awards – the largest wine competition in the world. Spain ended up with eight wines ranked Best in Show – the same as France and only just pipped at the post by Australia. (Two each from Rioja and Sherry, one each from Ribeiro, Rías Baixas, Bierzo and Clàssic Penedès). Some of the producers, importers and retailers of these winners are in this room. So let’s have some applause for the achievements this year.
Now I’d like to welcome our new Caballeros. We acquire our first ever sommelier this evening. We also have two winemakers. Our first winemaker and wine buyer is Jo Ahearne, Master of Wine. Jo has had an impressive career across Europe and beyond, and her Spanish agencies at Boutinot are very lucky to have her. I’m delighted to say that with Jo Ahearne’s election we are reliably into double figures with women Caballeros. But we still have a way to go to reflect the real diversity of today’s Spanish wine trade.
Our next Caballero, Ferrán Centelles is an extraordinarily enthusiastic and generous ambassador for Spain, always ready to share ideas and build networks. His latest achievement is the huge publishing project of the ElBulliFoundation. By the way if you have ever wondered what I would look like in a toga, (I’m sure you have ) you’ll find a cartoon of me judging wine with our fellow Caballero Pedro Ballesteros in his book. Both of us are in Roman togas. Not a great look, I can assure you.
Our third Caballero, Jesús Madrazo holds a special place in my heart as he was the first winemaker I ever visited in Rioja. That appointment with him was a result of winning the Freixenet scholarship for my WSET Diploma – and Philip Rowles on Table 10 is the man who made that trip happen. Philip is one of several people in this room who set me on the path to my work today. I’m very grateful.
If you look at your menu, you will see that Philip became a Caballero in 1991. There are two people in the room who have even a longer history as Caballeros. Andy Henderson (1987) on Table 10, and John Hawes (1986) on Table 13. Also on Table 13 is Caballero Richard Bigg, who has just celebrated his 60th birthday. Happy birthday Richard!
Now to today’s wines. They were chosen by Caballeros from wines submitted by Caballeros. You have already enjoyed the traditional method sparkling from Torres named after the English sea captain, Vardon Kennett. I’m also delighted to have a Corpinnat from Gramona for the Stirrup Cup. Thank you, Catriona Felstead Table 7. For the Investiture the lovely Manzanilla Pasada, came from Lustau.
We have two delicious whites, showing a different face of Spain from the usual Albariños and Verdejos. The Albillo Mayor came from Cillar de Silos. Thank you Amelia Aragon (Table 11). Amelia is a very loyal supporter of this dinner. The amphora-aged Garnacha Blanca from Bodegas Bhilar comes from Melanie Hickman on Table 10. A delicious wine.
The first red is from Jumilla. Is this the first time we have had Jumilla at this dinner? Thank you to Paul Shinnie on Table 9. And our Rioja, the Cosme Palacio 1894, is a lovely old vine classic from North South Wines and Entrecanales Domecq e Hijos on Table 12.
And with the ridiculously indulgent pudding we will be enjoying a brilliant match – the González Byass Solera 1847 (Table 14). A quick shout out to Melissa Draycott of González Byass. The Wine and Spirit Trade Association has just given her an award for lobbying the government on behalf of the challenges facing the wine trade. Congratulations.
Thinking about challenges – sorry, that’s a rather obvious link. But if there’s one challenge we all face urgently it’s reducing carbon emissions and working sustainably. Spain has many advantages in this respect – the altitudes, the local varieties, the geography – to adapt to climate change. Importantly it is also the number 1 producer of organic grapes in Europe. It has a head start over France and Italy, and is really well placed to take the lead.
Many of you in this room have already signed up to sustainability initiatives. The Wine Society (Table 5) has made an ambitious commitment. Waitrose (Table 2) has already made some impressive wins, such as changing from small bottles to cans. You’ll notice that we no longer have printed invitations; and our menus are smaller. Though I must confess I was the first to object when the tasting book from the Annual Tasting was replaced by QR codes.
Time to conclude. First my heartiest thanks to the team from Foods and Wines from Spain and the Caballeros who uncorked and tested the several hundred bottles for this evening. Also for the very intense preparation in the run up to this dinner. Please give them a round of applause.
The date of this dinner is moving steadily earlier in the year. The Cabs dinner was always the first big event of the wine trade year. We want to edge it back that way. Look out for announcements in due course.
And now may I conclude by asking all the Caballeros to stand and please join me in toasting our guests.”
