Poet Laureate’s own label Sherry

A royal tradition that dates back centuries has been kept alive by GOCV member Graham Hines who worked with the CRDO Jerez y Manzanilla to ensure the Poet Laureate continues to receive a butt of Sherry.

During his visit to Jerez in October 2019, last year’s newly appointed Poet Laureate, Simon Armitage, choose his gift of Sherry and signed his own barrel. Following a few delays brought about by Covid-19 we are delighted to report that the wine has now been delivered to him.

On receiving the Sherry, Simon Armitage responded: “After the inevitable delay given current circumstances, I’m excited these special bottles have now arrived. I hope to put them to good use – as gifts and prizes to raise money in the name of poetry – now needed more than ever before. My wife drew the image of the cuckoo on the front label – the bird has a folklore connection with the village of Marsden where I grew up and where so many of my poems are rooted. My dialect poem “The Phoenix” appears on the reverse of the label and tells a version of the Marsden cuckoo story. There’s an annual Cuckoo Festival in the village – perhaps some sherry will be involved in forthcoming years and become part of the tradition itself!”

Background information

The Consejo Regulador de los Vinos de Jerez y Manzanilla (CRDO) is the regulating body of the Sherry industry representing all the interests concerned, whether they be growers, producers or exporters.

Traditionally, the Poet Laureate was rewarded with a small stipend and a butt of Sherry (once called Sherry sack) by the monarch of the day. In 1630, it was awarded to Ben Jonson. In 1790 when the Laureate of the day, Henry James Pye relinquished his butt for a payment of £27 per year, the custom fell into abeyance.

In 1984, to mark nearly 600 years of the trade in Sherry between the two countries, the Sherry producers of Spain offered to revive the custom by giving a butt (barrel) of Sherry (720 bottles) on the appointment of Ted Hughes as Poet Laureate. He travelled to Jerez in Spain, chose some Sherry and signed his cask, a traditional mark of respect for distinguished visitors.
Andrew Motion and Carol Ann Duffy, in their turn, also went to Jerez, to make their choices and sign their casks.

On his appointment, the Sherry producers of Jerez extended the same invitation to Simon Armitage to visit the region to see how Sherry is made and select his wine.

The Laureate’s Sherry is bottled using their exclusive labels: Ted Hughes drew his own; Andrew Motion’s daughter Siddy designed his, while Carol Ann Duffy’s label was created by her friend, the textual artist, Steven Raw. Simon Armitage’s wife Sue produced a drawing of the “Marsden Cuckoo” which was developed into a label design. A poem by Simon features on the back label.

There has been a strong literary connection with Sherry over the years, mentioned by Chaucer, Shakespeare, Pepys and Dickens amongst others.

The previous Poets Laureate have all used their Sherry for charitable purposes connected with poetry, as well as for their own consumption. As a butt contains about 720 bottles, delivery of this is now normally spread out over the ten years of the Poet Laureate’s tenure, an average of 72 bottles per year.

GOCV supports the WSET Diploma

The GOCV was delighted to support the update of the Student Study Guide materials on Spain for the new look 2020 WSET Diploma qualification.  GOCV member Philip Rowles explains

‘I’ve been the principal Diploma lecturer on Spanish Light Wines and Sherry for over 20 years. In 2019, building on this professional personal relationship, the WSET asked me to help them execute a root and branch overhaul and a major expansion of the Study Guide materials for Spanish Light Wines, Cava and Sherry for the new Diploma qualification which was to be launched later that year.

The WSET Awards Product Development Team, headed up by Vicky Burt MW, drew up a draft framework for the scope and content of the enhanced guide. My task was then to write a complete revision.  It took more than 6 months to research and develop the notes. They are organised by geographical region, comprising key DOP and IGT areas, and delve deeply into principal grape varieties, local regulations, practices, soil types, weather patterns and a multitude of other salient factors, with a historical introduction as well.

As the file grew, there were regular on-line and face to face meetings with Vicky and her team to ensure that there were no major omissions, errors or simplifications. I am particularly grateful for the help given by the ICEX Foods and Wines from Spain teams in both London and Madrid, principally in respect of up to date production and sales statistics, vineyard census figures and regulation updates.

Once my research was complete, it was written up by the WSET Qualifications team, so that it mirrored the style of all other national and regional Study Guide content from around the world.

Finally, prior to publication, the file was passed to my fellow Caballero Sarah Jane Evans MW. She was then asked to make a technical edit on the three sections. For the sake of rigorous professional competence, the WSET did not disclose who the original author was. It’s only now that she knows.

We were delighted to be able to continue to be at the centre of wine education about Spain by providing these new study materials. The WSET Diploma is now a global qualification.  Once more the Caballeros show their relevance to the wine trade and to wine education, as an objective source of up-to-date, independent information.

WSET Diploma students of my vintage will also remember that the late John Radford, a fellow Caballero, lectured on Spain and Sherry in the early 1990s.

Sarah Jane Evans MW, chair GOCV
GOCV Member Philip Rowles at his investiture (1991).
The Guide is available on-line to all paid up WSET Diploma students and to accredited WSET programme providers and lecturers globally. It will be updated as necessary, with our continuing input.

Recipe: Roast Chicken with Pine Kernels and Raisins

Recipe kindly provided by María José Sevilla, author of Delicioso: A History of Food in Spain (published 2020) and GOCV member.

Pollo al Horno con Pasas y Piñones

It was on a wine trip to Jerez de la Frontera, a long time ago, when I encountered this recipe for the first time. It had been cooked for a Sunday dinner by a friend. I loved its simplicity and the complex flavours given by the combination of the dry fruits and the wine. Thinking about it, it could have been served in Catalonia where often pine kernels and raisins are used in many preparations, although the wine that gives such grace to the dish would not have been an ‘oloroso’ but probably a local ‘vino rancio’.

Ingredients

Serves 4

1-1.5 Kg organic chicken, whole

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Spanish extra virgin olive oil

15 g butter

50 g raisins or sultanas, soaked for 30 minutes then drained

50 g pine kernels

1 glass oloroso Sherry

Preparation

Preheat the oven to 180 C.

Season the chicken with salt and freshly ground black pepper and brush with olive oil. Roast for about 1 hour 30 minutes until brown, basting occasionally. Transfer to a warmed serving dish or a traditional Spanish earthenware ‘cazuela’. Heat the butter and fry carefully the raisins and the pine kernels, for 3 to 4 minutes . Add them to the chicken. Pour over the Sherry and set alight before serving.

Wines from Spain Awards

GOCV member and chair of the Wines from Spain Awards, Tim Atkin MW introduces this year’s competition and hosts the annual ceremony and tasting at the Spanish Embassy in London.

“Judging the Wines from Spain Awards is a labour of love, not just for convinced Hispanophiles like me, but for anyone who values diversity and complexity in the glass. It’s never difficult to find experienced judges who want to come and taste the latest release from one of the world’s most exciting wine-producing countries. A number of them have been with us since the first edition of this annual competition.

(l-r) Tim Atkin MW, presents fellow GOCV member Jose Velo-Rego of Bodegas Muga with the Champion Rose Award for Flor de Muga Rose 2018 at the Wines from Spain awards 2019. Joined by Alvaro Nadal, head of the Spanish Economic & Commercial Office and Ambassador H.E. Carlos Bastarreche.

We don’t have to choose a strict number of wines and yet this year we magically came up with a round, perfectly formed 100. The idea is to select the best wines, rather than to choose certain styles or grape varieties, so I’m delighted that our final picks were as heterogeneous as ever. You’ll certainly be familiar with many of the denominaciones de origen represented, but others may be new or at least largely unfamiliar. It’s great to see wines from Alicante, Bullas, Cebreros, Lanzarote and Sierra de Gredos.

Spain continues to offer some of the best value in the world – not the same as cheapness, by the way – and the 2019 selection has delivered once more, with wines from £7.99 to £50. I hope you enjoy tasting them as much as we did selecting them.”
Tim Atkin MW

Wines from Spain awards – Champion Wines – 2019

Champion Wines

  • BEST CAVA STARS BRUT NATURE 2014, CASTILLO PERELADA
  • BEST DISCOVERY PANSA BLANCA 2018, RAVENTÓS DE ALELLA
  • BEST WHITE OVER £10 RAIMAT EL NIU DE LA CIGONYA, RAVENTÓS CODORNÍU
  • BEST PREMIUM WHITE MALVASÍA SECO COLECCIÓN 2018, EL GRIFO
  • BEST VALUE WHITE CASTELO DE MEDINA VERDEJO 2018, BODEGAS CASTELO DE MEDINA
  • BEST ROSADO FLOR DE MUGA 2018, BODEGAS MUGA
  • BEST VALUE RED JUAN GIL YELLOW 2018, GIL FAMILY ESTATES
  • BEST RED OVER £10 ALTOS R CRIANZA 2016, ALTOS DE RIOJA
  • BEST PREMIUM RED ONDARRE RESERVA 2014, BODEGAS ONDARRE
  • BEST OWN LABEL THE SOCIETY’S EXHIBITION RIOJA RESERVA 2011, LA RIOJA ALTA
  • BEST DRY FORTIFIED FERNANDO DE CASTILLA ANTIQUE OLOROSO NV, BODEGAS REY FERNANDO DE CASTILLA
  • BEST VALUE FORTIFIED BERTOLA CREAM NV, DÍEZ MÉRITO
  • BEST SWEET FORTIFIED FERNANDO DE CASTILLA ANTIQUE PEDRO XIMÉNEZ NV, BODEGAS REY FERNANDO DE CASTILLA
Wines from Spain awards – Champion Wines recipients – 2019

The 2019 Judges

TIM ATKIN MW
Chair of Judges, Wine Writer & GOCV Member
ANNETTE SCARFE MW
Consultant
BETH WILLARD
Wine Buyer, Direct Wines & GOCV Member
BRUNO MURCIANO
Wine Buyer, H2Vin
CHARLES METCALFE
Wine Writer & GOCV Member
CHRISTINE ALLEN
Marketing Director, MMD
HAL WILSON
Owner, Cambridge Wine Merchants
PETER MCCOMBIE MW
Consultant
RAFA MARTIN
Wine Buyer, Bibendum/Barrafina
RICHARD HEMMING MW
Wine Writer
SARAH BENSON
Wine Buyer, The Co-op
SIMON WOODS
Wine Writer
VICTORIA BURT MW
WSET