As we wind down for a much-needed break with our friends and families, we thought we’d share some of the Spanish food and drink pairings that the members of the Gran Orden de Caballeros del Vino Español will be enjoying this festive season.
Unlike the UK, where a meal of roast turkey and Christmas pudding is all but ubiquitous on Christmas Day, Spanish families tend to vary the dishes that they serve over the season, although there are a few ingredients and particular sweet treats that signify that it’s Christmas in Spain.
The big celebratory meal takes place on Christmas Eve. As in the past this was a time for fasting, fish was served rather than meat. Besugo or red sea bream is one of the best catches at this time of year so it has become traditional to serve a whole fish baked in the oven, often on a bed of sliced potatoes and flavoured with garlic, lemon and a drizzle of olive oil.
Although she has lived in London for many years, Caballero Maria José Sevilla has maintained the tradition of gathering for a big meal on the evening of the 24th December:
“Something I always prepare for Christmas Eve, when I have all the family around the table, is a turrón ice-cream served with a rich sauce made with pasas (raisins) from Malaga soaked in an exquisite Montilla PX. I always serve this ice cream with a copita of the same wine.”
Along with polvorones – crumbly shortbread biscuits – Christmas in Spain would not be complete without turrón. This nougat-like confection dates back to the times of al-Andalus and the original recipe contains honey, almonds, egg white and sugar, although many variants are now available.
Seafood is another must-have, with queues building up at pescaderías all over Spain in the lead up to Christmas and the New Year. Fresh prawns or langoustines served with Cava make for a simple but sublime pairing that always features over the holidays. Cava also takes a starring role on New Year’s Eve, often served with twelve grapes that are eaten in time with the chimes of the clock.
In Cataluña, Cava is served with an even wider range of dishes, as Caballero Ferran Centelles explains: “In our house we always eat escudella i carn d’olla, which is a traditional soup containing stewed meat, chickpeas and sausages. It might sound strange but we always drink Cava Brut Nature alongside it. It has become a tradition and we love how delicious it is and how the cava really refreshes the palate.”
The 26th December – St Stephen’s Day – is also a holiday in Cataluña and time for another classic dish, as Ferran explains: “ We celebrate San Esteve with the traditional canelones. At home we enjoy it with a young red made using carbonic maceration. A delightfully fruity pairing.”
Caballero Richard Bigg shares some pairings for a dish that he and his Spanish wife often cook at home and is now on the menu at Camino: slow-braised ox cheek with Oloroso Sherry sauce, Jerusalem artichoke purée and a hazelnut crumble.
“There are a couple of matches that go really well,” Bigg explains. “Either a good Oloroso sherry, such as the one we stock from Bodegas Gutiérrez Colosía, which is full-bodied, nutty with a strong and fragrant aroma and a deep, rounded, super-smooth texture, or a hearty red. I’d recommend Pesquera from Bodegas Alejandro Fernández in DO Ribera del Duero – a Crianza rather than a Reserva as it has a good freshness and acidity that cuts through the rich meatiness of the dish. For me, this is one of the most deservedly famous bodegas on the Golden Mile, and the wine has expressive black fruit and spice flavours and a refined, elegant finish.”
Sarah Jane Evans MW, Chairman of the Gran Orden, incorporates Spanish wines into British traditions. On Christmas Eve, she puts out glasses of Palo Cortado Sherry and mince pies on the mantelpiece for Father Christmas, with a carrot for the reindeer. The tradition on Christmas Day is Beef Wellington, served with a mature Rioja. ‘The timeless, velvety character of the wines are deliciously indulgent with a meal that goes on gently through the afternoon into the early evening.’
The festive season in Spain isn’t over until the 6th January, when the Three Kings traditionally bring gifts and grown-ups and children alike indulge in the Roscón de Reyes, a sweet and doughy ring-shaped cake adorned with candied fruits. This festive dessert hides a small figurine and/or a dried bean within. Tradition dictates that the person who discovers the figurine is blessed with good luck, while the finder of the bean must buy next year’s Roscón! Rather than anything alcoholic, the classic accompaniment is rich hot chocolate.
¡Felices Fiestas!